Ask Annie (April 19, 2013)

 It's good to have my that my parents have their taxes done and now I'm back doing the things I love ... and this is one of them!

One of my readers asked a question about how to help a high strung dog deal with anxiety. She said her family has a lot of anxiety and the dog seems to pick up on it, he is restless and seems on edge a lot.  Her name is Jackelyn and I think she must love her dog a whole lot to be concerned about his anxiety.  

So, here is what I can tell you, based on what I know about it.  

Dogs exhibit anxiety for many reasons, some because of environmental stressors and many times because of separation.  Sometimes they are anxious because they are bored. 

 It's very important to remember that a tired dog is a happy dog. 

Panda

Also, did you know that your dog is very perceptive of your emotions and how you are feeling?  Some say that a dog can hear your heartbeat from 5 feet away.   

You say that there is a lot of anxiety in your home, but with no further details, it’s hard for me to know if this is an ongoing issue, or whether it is temporary or permanent.  

 Dogs are pretty adaptable and just need to know that they are part of the family.  We need our time to shine and be the center of attention within the family, and and we need a chance to work off our energy (after all, we are dogs). 

Tessie

Let’s just say that your house is full of activity and kids and just busy-ness from two working parents with kids and lots of responsibilities and chores and activities and more to do than you have time to do it.  Where does your dog fit into the family?  Does your dog get to go for a walk everyday?  This is not only important for your dog’s daily life, it is essential to her well-being, and can be a huge contributor to stress.  

Bella

In many ways, it is important to put yourself in your dog’s place. Try and imagine how you would feel if you had to stay inside your house, except for short potty breaks, everyday, all day long.  How do you feel when you have gotten out for a brisk walk or jog, or a workout at the gym?  Your dog feels the same way!  For families who have a fenced-in yard, it is easy to fall out of the routine of walking your dog, but a daily walk is vital, especially for a dog that is prone to anxiety.

Does your dog have a job?  Does he get to solve puzzles?  This is a great area to explore, and can be accomplished with a little imagination and things you have around your house.  Here are a few ideas:

Rocky

Get a box (judge how big or small by the size of your dog) and fill it with crumpled packing (or other non-toxic) paper.  Add bits of dry kibble or your dog’s favorite treat (maybe some chunks of cheese) and let her figure out how to get to all of those yummy morsels.  He will have to tip the box, rummage through the paper, sniff, scratch, tear and most of all use her brain to get what she wants out of the box.

Does your dog have a Kong? If not, he is in for a treat.  My mom and dad fill my Kong with layers of yummy stuff and when I am finished digging all that stuff out of there, I am exhausted and usually fall asleep when I am done. Here are some ideas of what you can layer in your dog’s Kong (and don’t let this stop you from letting your imagination go wild, because your dog is going to love whatever you fill it with): 

• dry kibble
• cheese chunks
• pieces of cooked carrots 
• cooked peas
• broken pieces of doggie treats
• pieces of cooked chicken

Once you have the Kong almost filled with the layers of yummy stuff, top it off with canned dog food or peanut butter and watch your dog go to town.  (You’re gonna want to give it to him in a place where it’s OK that he makes a slobbery mess, but it’s sooo worth it!)

Another idea that will prolong the “job” of emptying the Kong is to freeze it.  You might want to have 2 Kongs on a rotation so that one can be freezing while the other is being ravaged emptied.  

Lacey

My mom has read about others who buy beef bones at the pet store, empty them out of all the gross chemical laden stuff that comes inside of it when you buy them, and then stuff the hollow bones with the yumminess of your choice.  Like I said, let your imagination run away and you will have one very happy(ier) dog. 

One game you (or your older kids) can play with your dog is the “cup game.”  Put 2 or 3 cups upside down on the floor and put a Very Tasty Treat under one of the cups, but don’t tell your dog where it is.  Challenge your dog to find which cup has the treat, and then he has to figure out how to get to it.  Do it over and over again, each time changing the location or order of the cup containing the treat. 

Many of my friends that suffer from anxiety wear thundershirts.  If you haven’t heard about them, here’s where you can read more about this wonderful invention: http://tiny.cc/vwrqvw 

Here is a picture of my friend, Cookie, in her Thundershirt.  Cookie loves it and it helps her very very much.

Cookie

 You can put your dog into a thundershirt if you know she is getting ready to experience a certain stressor such as thunder, fireworks, or the vacuum cleaner.  If your dog is generally anxious, at least in the beginning of seeking solutions, you can let him wear it most of the time.  It will make him feel secure.  I have never used one, but I know they have worked wonders for my friends and I also know they use them at the shelter for the dogs who need them.

Similar to the theory behind a thundershirt, does your dog have a crate?  A place to call his own, where he can retreat whenever he wishes?  When used properly, a crate is a wonderful part of a dog’s life.  It’s a cozy little place where a dog can go to feel like nothing can harm him.  His very own den filled with his very own scent where he can go and get away from it all. 

Snuggles

 I hope I have given you some helpful information, and I am really happy that you follow my column.  There are lots of books out there about ways to help your dog overcome anxiety.  My favorite two experts on the issue are Jean Donaldson and Sue Sternberg. 

Your dog is lucky to have a guardian like you who cares so much that you look for answers to his issues. 

 

Ask Annie (4-2-2013)

I took a few days off to celebrate Easter with my family and to catch up on my rest from our week-long house guest.  His name is Emo and he is my nephew.  Emo is a retired Greyhound and when he is at my house he sleeps in my bed and chases my cats.  He's really a good guy, and he's a lot older than me, so when he takes my bed, I just say it's OK.  I love him, but you know what they say about company ... and fish.   

But now I'm back and this week I've got something I want to share with everyone, instead of answering a question from my readers.  I have so many friends at the shelter (even though I have never met them, they are still my friends) who need good homes.  I care about them and what they are going through because I used to live there.  I lived there more than once, and once for a very long time.  When a dog has to spend time at the shelter (even a really, really good one like ours), she is really happy when she gets adopted, but it also comes with all kinds of uncertainty at first, for the dogs and for their new family, and that’s what I want to talk about. I hope the information I am going to share with you is useful to Good Buddies and to future furever families.  

Take it from a dog who knows, it takes about 30 days to really settle into a new home.  You gotta figure out what your new family is all about and they need time to figure you out, too.  My biggest problem when I first got to my foster furever home was that I growled at anyone and anything that came near my bed or my food.  Oh, boy, was THAT ever a no-no.  My foster new mom looked at me really serious and made me move away from whatever I was growling about and I knew she meant business.  She didn't act all lovey and nice the way I like it.  One time I had to wait until the other dogs in the house were completely done with their dinner before I got to eat.  One time I growled at my foster new dad because he wanted me to get down off of his bed where I was sleeping all warm and cuddled up next to my foster new mom.  He did the weirdest thing ... he went and got a bag of irresistible treats and bribed me off of the bed.  He did it over and over again until now I get down off the bed and I don't even know why I'm doing it. 

So, the reason I'm telling you this is because when your shelter dog gets to her furever home, she might make some mistakes and do things that you don't like.  I'm here to tell you, it's a stressful situation and we need a second chance or two to get it right while we are settling in.  

Here's a few little tips I think will help explain what I'm talking about (some of these ideas are quoted from petfinder.com):

Before your shelter dog new family member gets to your house, set things up something like this:

• Determine where your dog will be spending most of her time. Because she will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from shelter or foster home to your house), she may forget any housebreaking (if any) she’s learned at the shelter and/or from her Good Buddy. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.
• If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. 
• Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of her time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.
• Training your dog will start the first moment you have her. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. (Be sure you ask for the notes from your dog's Good Buddy about commands she has learned while in the Good Buddy Program, or that she might already know from a previous owner.  The shelter staff is great about sharing this type of information.)  This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn her commands more quickly. 
• Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that she has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If she is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company.

First Day:

• We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give her time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing her to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming her. Please respect the information the shelter has shared with you about your new dog.  If you have adopted a dog that is not good around other dogs, please respect that information.  The shelter staff is very well-trained in evaluating dogs and their behavior towards people and other dogs.  If you have adopted a dog that has issues around other dogs, don't push that boundary, especially in the first few days.  You might be able to help her overcome that issue with time, but it won't happen right away.  And for dog's sake, please, it's probably never a good idea to take that dog to the dog park. Not good for your dog or the other dogs in the park.  
• When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when she was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. 
• On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having her in a safe place will make the trip home easier on her and you. 

• Once home, take her to her toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so she will get used to the area and relieve herself. Even if your dog does relieve herself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds will throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. 
• If you plan on crate training your dog, leave the crate open so that she can go in whenever she feels like it in case she gets overwhelmed. 
• From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort her if she whines when left alone. Instead, give her attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly .

• For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park (even for dog-friendly dogs) or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, it will give you more one-on-one time to get to know her and her likes/dislikes.
• If she came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of inappropriate “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect.Or maybe she led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

Following Weeks:

• People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog will be a bit uneasy at first as she gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of her as well as what she can expect from you.

• After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure she’s having a good time — and is not fearful or a dog park bully. 

• To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time and attention she needs. You’ll be bonded in no time! 

• If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. 

Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you’ll be on your way to having a well-adjusted canine family member.

See you next week.  Keep those Ask Annie questions coming.  I love them all!!!

The Great Crate

 

Probably one of the best things a Good Buddy (human) can do for your Good Buddy (dog) is to teach all the good things there are to know about a crate.  One of our current former Good Buddies, Sasha, got the complete 4-1-1 about the crate from her Good Buddy, Marcy, and it worked ... she got adopted and is doing very well.  (Thanks, Marcy!)

Many people apply their "people brains" to the idea of putting a dog in a crate, rather than learning what it means from a "dog brain" point of view.  Very loving, caring, wonderful people say things like, "I wouldn't put my baby in a crate, so there's no way I would put my dog in a crate."  Or (this one is great!) ... "If I wouldn't be happy in a crate, then I know my dog wouldn't be happy in there, either."

Try and think of some other things your dog loves that you would never dream of doing, or much less allow your human children to do.  A few things come to mind ... maybe rolling in the stinkiest things they can find outside because it's fun and they like it?  How about, sniffing of butts (human and canine) as a way to say hello and make new friends?   Let your imagination roam and you can probably think of a few other things ...

The truth is that dogs are den animals, and they like it very, very much if they have a place to go and get away from it all.  They still have some of the instincts of their wild ancestors and very much crave the security they experience when they are able to be tucked away in a secure spot that they call their very own.  Crates for dogs are sometimes referred to as a "private room with a view" for a dog.

Imagine your Good Buddy is a dog that has never had a "den" to call their own, never lived indoors, or maybe spent days and nights tied up outside to a pole, or maybe roamed the streets eating from trash cans and garbage piles to stay alive.  Maybe your Good Buddy really lived in a house, but he was allowed to roam the house, exhibit bad doggie manners and never learned rules, boundaries and limitations that would make him a good citizen.

Whatever your Good Buddy's story, it really doesn't matter ... it's in the past and she needs to move forward.  She needs a forever home.  You are her coach, her friend, her teacher and biggest advocate, and if you can help her add "crate trained" to her resume, her chances of being adopted by her forever family and her chances for not having a "bounce back" will be greatly improved.

So, here are a few basics about crate training (courtesy of Rescue Me Dog.org):

Choose a crate size that allows your dog to stand up and turn and preferably a wire crate rather than a plastic one.  The goal is to give your dog the idea that you are setting him up in a "room with a view," rather than a plastic box.

If  your dog is fearful of the crate, you may need to work on getting him conditioned to going into it:

• Place the crate in a high traffic area so he does not associate the crate with being alone.
• Prop open the door
• Toss a piece of food just inside the door.  Repeat several times and each time toss the food farther into crate.
• Feed your dog a meal in the back of the crate.
• While your dog is happily eating his treat in the crate, quietly and calmly close and open the crate door repeatedly

This is very important:  If your dog is really frightened of the crate, take it apart and just use the bottom half.  If you can't take it apart, then just use a cardboard box.

The goal is to get your dog to go into the crate without a lure.  After he gets the hang of it, start using a verbal cue, such as "crate" right before he steps inside and be sure to give a treat after he goes inside.

For those dogs who won't go in the crate for love or money, follow these steps:

•  When the dog looks at the crate, toss a treat.  When he takes a step toward the crate, toss a treat.
• When he puts his nose in the crate, toss a treat.  Treat for one paw in the crate, two paws in the crate, etc.
• If your dog goes all the way into the crate, give him handfuls of treats.
• Once he is reliably going into the crate, start using the verbal cue word that we talked about a moment ago.

 Here are a few don'ts ... actually they are NEVERS:

• Never make a bad association with the crate by shoving your dog in.
• Never make a fuss when you let your dog out of the crate, or he will perceive it as being rewarding for coming OUT of his crate.
• Never leave your dog in his crate with nothing to do.  This is the time for kongs, chew toys, treats.
• Never punish your dog by sending him to his crate.

And on a positive note ...

ALWAYS give your dog access to his crate at all times by leaving the door open.
ALWAYS vary the amount of time your dog spends in his crate.  Just like the dog that dislikes car rides because the only place you take him in the car is to the vet, the dog who gets locked up for 6 hours every time he goes into his crate might very well become reluctant to go in his crate at all.

For our Good Buddies, there are crates at the shelter that you can use to do much of this work with your dog, and it is a good thing to practice to get your Good Buddy ready for his new home.  Chances are good that this will make life a lot easier for everyone if this work has already begun when their forever families walk through the door.