Pit Bulls At The Dog Park (Part 2 of 4-Part Series)

It's Part 2 of my 4-part series on the Dog Park, and I can't wait to tell you what happened this week!  Are you ready?  Momma took my sister and me to the Dog Park and we had a great time.  Whew ... I wasn't sure when I was going to get to go back, but it finally happened.  I love our dog park and I think the people who worked so hard to build it must really love dogs ... a lot!!!  I just wish people would behave themselves at the dog park.  Yes, I said people.  I think following the rules at the dog park is a great way to say thank you for all the hard work that went into making the dog park a reality for all of us.   

Do you know why I decided to call this little series "Pit Bulls at the Dog Park"?  There are actually several reasons:  (1) I am a pit bull, and I love the dog park; (2) there are a lot of people who don't understand me and my breed, and I want to raise awareness of what's true about us; and (3) there have been some really bad situations at our dog park that reportedly involve pit bull type dogs poor judgment being used by individual dogs that are not properly socialized.

I have a theory about why so many people lately have been complaining about pit bulls in our dog park here in Warren County.  You know me -- when I have a theory (aka opinion) I'm probably going to share it with you.  Here are a few of my thinkings:

There are a lot of pit bull type/ pit-mixed breeds in our county -- a lot more than you think.  We have lived behind closed doors for a long time because there has not been an off-leash area where we can run and be free until just last year, and in many cases our owners don't routinely take us places because of the troubling comments and gestures that we experience when we are go out in public (it's embarrassing).  In some households, dogs (not just pitties) are not exercised or stimulated on a regular basis, and have never had interaction with other dogs on any level since they were adopted.  In many cases, this is a "perfect storm" in the making, and taking ANY unsocialized dog to the dog park with no advance preparation is a recipe for disaster, and it's not fair to a dog who thinks he's just doing what he's s'posed to be doing.    

How is a dog owner supposed to know how their dog is going to act around other dogs if they have never been around other dogs?  Is the dog park the place to first get this question answered?  Lordy, no!!!  What if your dog has herding tendencies with other dogs and you have never taken the time to discover/address/manage this issue before opening that gate to the dog park?  What if your dog (who has never been around other dogs) is big and burly and is irritated by a smaller dog running around his hind legs and jumping up trying to sniff his butt say hello? How is he going to react?  Are you a gambling person who wants to wait to find out the answer to that question after you are in the dog park with 25 other dogs?  What if your dog is a terrier -- boston terrier, pit bull terrier, westhighland white terrier -- and, like many terrier type dogs, has a strong chase drive?  If she has never been around another dog (other than a family dog she sees everyday and who is not a good test of a dog's tolerance for other dogs), what are you going to do when you open that gate to the dog park and your terrier with years of pent-up energy and no effective behavior management chases after a little Yorkie, picks him up and shakes him like a rag bone?  Is that your dog's fault, or is it the result of poor owner management?  


I wish that all the people who use the park knew how to use common sense when it comes to dog-dog meetings.  Momma says that most people are smart and have common sense, but the few that leave their brains at home when they bring their dogs to the park are the ones who cause us to have to leave before we are done playing.  

I have come up with a few true/false questions I want to share with you.  Do you know the answers?  I hope they can be conversation starters in your family this week and I will give you the answers to them next week.

1.  TRUE OR FALSE -- "Smart Socializing" involves setting your dog up for only positive dog-dog interactions.

2.  TRUE OR FALSE -- Dog parks are a dependable place to begin socializing your dog.

3.  TRUE OR FALSE -- My dog is really good with the other dogs in my home, and with my cousin's dog that lives close by.  Doesn't that mean he will be fine with all other dogs he meets?

4.  TRUE OR FALSE -- It's OK to wait until your dog experiences his first fight to know it's time to begin managing and training him about good doggie citizenship.

5.  TRUE OR FALSE -- A good way to socialize a dog is to let her walk up to other dogs she doesn't know while on her daily walk.

That's it for this week.  I can't wait to see how many humans pass this basic Good Owner Management Quiz.  Will you get 100%?   I know you will!!! 

Smart Socializing involves setting your dog up for success with only positive dog-dog interactions. - See more at: http://www.badrap.org/node/98#sthash.SVY1Z54l.dpuf

Smart Socializing involves setting your dog up for success with only positive dog-dog interactions. - See more at: http://www.badrap.org/node/98#sthash.SVY1Z54l.dpuf

Smart Socializing involves setting your dog up for success with only positive dog-dog interactions. - See more at: http://www.badrap.org/node/98#sthash.SVY1Z54l.dpuf

Ask Annie (April 19, 2013)

 It's good to have my that my parents have their taxes done and now I'm back doing the things I love ... and this is one of them!

One of my readers asked a question about how to help a high strung dog deal with anxiety. She said her family has a lot of anxiety and the dog seems to pick up on it, he is restless and seems on edge a lot.  Her name is Jackelyn and I think she must love her dog a whole lot to be concerned about his anxiety.  

So, here is what I can tell you, based on what I know about it.  

Dogs exhibit anxiety for many reasons, some because of environmental stressors and many times because of separation.  Sometimes they are anxious because they are bored. 

 It's very important to remember that a tired dog is a happy dog. 

Panda

Also, did you know that your dog is very perceptive of your emotions and how you are feeling?  Some say that a dog can hear your heartbeat from 5 feet away.   

You say that there is a lot of anxiety in your home, but with no further details, it’s hard for me to know if this is an ongoing issue, or whether it is temporary or permanent.  

 Dogs are pretty adaptable and just need to know that they are part of the family.  We need our time to shine and be the center of attention within the family, and and we need a chance to work off our energy (after all, we are dogs). 

Tessie

Let’s just say that your house is full of activity and kids and just busy-ness from two working parents with kids and lots of responsibilities and chores and activities and more to do than you have time to do it.  Where does your dog fit into the family?  Does your dog get to go for a walk everyday?  This is not only important for your dog’s daily life, it is essential to her well-being, and can be a huge contributor to stress.  

Bella

In many ways, it is important to put yourself in your dog’s place. Try and imagine how you would feel if you had to stay inside your house, except for short potty breaks, everyday, all day long.  How do you feel when you have gotten out for a brisk walk or jog, or a workout at the gym?  Your dog feels the same way!  For families who have a fenced-in yard, it is easy to fall out of the routine of walking your dog, but a daily walk is vital, especially for a dog that is prone to anxiety.

Does your dog have a job?  Does he get to solve puzzles?  This is a great area to explore, and can be accomplished with a little imagination and things you have around your house.  Here are a few ideas:

Rocky

Get a box (judge how big or small by the size of your dog) and fill it with crumpled packing (or other non-toxic) paper.  Add bits of dry kibble or your dog’s favorite treat (maybe some chunks of cheese) and let her figure out how to get to all of those yummy morsels.  He will have to tip the box, rummage through the paper, sniff, scratch, tear and most of all use her brain to get what she wants out of the box.

Does your dog have a Kong? If not, he is in for a treat.  My mom and dad fill my Kong with layers of yummy stuff and when I am finished digging all that stuff out of there, I am exhausted and usually fall asleep when I am done. Here are some ideas of what you can layer in your dog’s Kong (and don’t let this stop you from letting your imagination go wild, because your dog is going to love whatever you fill it with): 

• dry kibble
• cheese chunks
• pieces of cooked carrots 
• cooked peas
• broken pieces of doggie treats
• pieces of cooked chicken

Once you have the Kong almost filled with the layers of yummy stuff, top it off with canned dog food or peanut butter and watch your dog go to town.  (You’re gonna want to give it to him in a place where it’s OK that he makes a slobbery mess, but it’s sooo worth it!)

Another idea that will prolong the “job” of emptying the Kong is to freeze it.  You might want to have 2 Kongs on a rotation so that one can be freezing while the other is being ravaged emptied.  

Lacey

My mom has read about others who buy beef bones at the pet store, empty them out of all the gross chemical laden stuff that comes inside of it when you buy them, and then stuff the hollow bones with the yumminess of your choice.  Like I said, let your imagination run away and you will have one very happy(ier) dog. 

One game you (or your older kids) can play with your dog is the “cup game.”  Put 2 or 3 cups upside down on the floor and put a Very Tasty Treat under one of the cups, but don’t tell your dog where it is.  Challenge your dog to find which cup has the treat, and then he has to figure out how to get to it.  Do it over and over again, each time changing the location or order of the cup containing the treat. 

Many of my friends that suffer from anxiety wear thundershirts.  If you haven’t heard about them, here’s where you can read more about this wonderful invention: http://tiny.cc/vwrqvw 

Here is a picture of my friend, Cookie, in her Thundershirt.  Cookie loves it and it helps her very very much.

Cookie

 You can put your dog into a thundershirt if you know she is getting ready to experience a certain stressor such as thunder, fireworks, or the vacuum cleaner.  If your dog is generally anxious, at least in the beginning of seeking solutions, you can let him wear it most of the time.  It will make him feel secure.  I have never used one, but I know they have worked wonders for my friends and I also know they use them at the shelter for the dogs who need them.

Similar to the theory behind a thundershirt, does your dog have a crate?  A place to call his own, where he can retreat whenever he wishes?  When used properly, a crate is a wonderful part of a dog’s life.  It’s a cozy little place where a dog can go to feel like nothing can harm him.  His very own den filled with his very own scent where he can go and get away from it all. 

Snuggles

 I hope I have given you some helpful information, and I am really happy that you follow my column.  There are lots of books out there about ways to help your dog overcome anxiety.  My favorite two experts on the issue are Jean Donaldson and Sue Sternberg. 

Your dog is lucky to have a guardian like you who cares so much that you look for answers to his issues. 

 

Ask Annie (4-2-2013)

I took a few days off to celebrate Easter with my family and to catch up on my rest from our week-long house guest.  His name is Emo and he is my nephew.  Emo is a retired Greyhound and when he is at my house he sleeps in my bed and chases my cats.  He's really a good guy, and he's a lot older than me, so when he takes my bed, I just say it's OK.  I love him, but you know what they say about company ... and fish.   

But now I'm back and this week I've got something I want to share with everyone, instead of answering a question from my readers.  I have so many friends at the shelter (even though I have never met them, they are still my friends) who need good homes.  I care about them and what they are going through because I used to live there.  I lived there more than once, and once for a very long time.  When a dog has to spend time at the shelter (even a really, really good one like ours), she is really happy when she gets adopted, but it also comes with all kinds of uncertainty at first, for the dogs and for their new family, and that’s what I want to talk about. I hope the information I am going to share with you is useful to Good Buddies and to future furever families.  

Take it from a dog who knows, it takes about 30 days to really settle into a new home.  You gotta figure out what your new family is all about and they need time to figure you out, too.  My biggest problem when I first got to my foster furever home was that I growled at anyone and anything that came near my bed or my food.  Oh, boy, was THAT ever a no-no.  My foster new mom looked at me really serious and made me move away from whatever I was growling about and I knew she meant business.  She didn't act all lovey and nice the way I like it.  One time I had to wait until the other dogs in the house were completely done with their dinner before I got to eat.  One time I growled at my foster new dad because he wanted me to get down off of his bed where I was sleeping all warm and cuddled up next to my foster new mom.  He did the weirdest thing ... he went and got a bag of irresistible treats and bribed me off of the bed.  He did it over and over again until now I get down off the bed and I don't even know why I'm doing it. 

So, the reason I'm telling you this is because when your shelter dog gets to her furever home, she might make some mistakes and do things that you don't like.  I'm here to tell you, it's a stressful situation and we need a second chance or two to get it right while we are settling in.  

Here's a few little tips I think will help explain what I'm talking about (some of these ideas are quoted from petfinder.com):

Before your shelter dog new family member gets to your house, set things up something like this:

• Determine where your dog will be spending most of her time. Because she will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from shelter or foster home to your house), she may forget any housebreaking (if any) she’s learned at the shelter and/or from her Good Buddy. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.
• If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. 
• Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of her time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.
• Training your dog will start the first moment you have her. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. (Be sure you ask for the notes from your dog's Good Buddy about commands she has learned while in the Good Buddy Program, or that she might already know from a previous owner.  The shelter staff is great about sharing this type of information.)  This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn her commands more quickly. 
• Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that she has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If she is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company.

First Day:

• We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give her time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing her to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming her. Please respect the information the shelter has shared with you about your new dog.  If you have adopted a dog that is not good around other dogs, please respect that information.  The shelter staff is very well-trained in evaluating dogs and their behavior towards people and other dogs.  If you have adopted a dog that has issues around other dogs, don't push that boundary, especially in the first few days.  You might be able to help her overcome that issue with time, but it won't happen right away.  And for dog's sake, please, it's probably never a good idea to take that dog to the dog park. Not good for your dog or the other dogs in the park.  
• When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when she was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. 
• On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having her in a safe place will make the trip home easier on her and you. 

• Once home, take her to her toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so she will get used to the area and relieve herself. Even if your dog does relieve herself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds will throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. 
• If you plan on crate training your dog, leave the crate open so that she can go in whenever she feels like it in case she gets overwhelmed. 
• From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort her if she whines when left alone. Instead, give her attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly .

• For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park (even for dog-friendly dogs) or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, it will give you more one-on-one time to get to know her and her likes/dislikes.
• If she came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of inappropriate “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect.Or maybe she led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

Following Weeks:

• People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog will be a bit uneasy at first as she gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of her as well as what she can expect from you.

• After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure she’s having a good time — and is not fearful or a dog park bully. 

• To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time and attention she needs. You’ll be bonded in no time! 

• If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. 

Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you’ll be on your way to having a well-adjusted canine family member.

See you next week.  Keep those Ask Annie questions coming.  I love them all!!!

Walk the Walk

Cookie's photo by Susan Sandstrom Wagoner

We hate to admit it, but there is a dark side of us, one that we hate to reveal to the world, that we simply don’t walk our dogs as much as we should because it’s too unpredictable.  Our angel, the light of our life, the center of our universe, the perfect pooch that so deserves everything her (or his) heart desires has the ability to embarrass and humiliate (or even injure) us at the site of a squirrel, another dog, or (heaven forbid) a jogger.  If we are honest with ourselves, we have routes that we avoid in our neighborhood because that “Other Dog” that lives behind the fence, the one that sends our little sweetie to the moon, is always in his backyard whenever we walk past. 

Many of us experience this difficulty with our own dogs, but how many shelter volunteers and Good Buddy humans experience similar issues when walking our Good Buddy dogs?  How many dogs would be more “adoptable” if they only knew how to better walk on their leash and not be so reactive to other dogs?  How many dogs just don't get walked because it's difficult or nearly impossible, based on how they react to other dogs?  The solution is as amazing as it is surprising …

Caliber would love a Good Buddy.  

The next time you are headed out with your Good Buddy dog, pack his or her very favorite, irresistible bag of treats.  If it’s bacon, make it little pieces of bacon.  Lots of them. If it’s hot dogs, make it little pieces of hot dogs.  If it’s steamed carrots (yes, steamed carrots), then steam ‘em and pack ‘em.  It’s called currency -- find the dog’s personal currency and use it to your advantage.

As you are approaching that dreaded, forbidden location of the “Other Dog,” transform yourself into a Treat-Giving Machine.  In the beginning, your Good Buddy is naturally going to exhibit the reactive behavior that you are trying to correct, but that’s OK.  Don’t correct or react, don’t praise, just keep cranking out the Very Yummy Treats.  You’re just trying to get the dog’s attention and teach your Good Buddy that walking past the Other Dog is going to be connected to the Very Yummy Treats.  Keep walking and as you clear the sight of the Other Dog, stop showering the Very Yummy Treats.  Do it again tomorrow, and do it again the next day. Sooner than later you are going to notice that your Good Buddy isn’t reacting to the Other Dog.  He is going to start anticipating the Very Yummy Treats, and his attention will begin to focus on You.  Hallelujah!  Give yourself a high-five … you did it!!!!  Don’t stop, though … keep doing it, over and over again and gradually withdraw the Very Yummy Treats as the behavior becomes more automatic. 

Visit Sasha at the Shelter.

Once a behavior is learned by a dog, he will begin to just do it, without the incentive of the Very Yummy Treats. Expect your Good Buddy to excel, let your body language show him that you know he can do it. He will have days that are better than others, but learning is a journey, and we are in it together. 

After you have had a chance to try this technique, please leave a comment and give let us know how it worked for you.  Happy Walking!

Loose Leash Walking ... Yes It's Possible!

It's a well-kept secret, but dogs HATE to be forced to walk in the opposite direction from where they are headed, and it turns out this is an important tool we can use to teach our stubborn walking companions to maintain a loose leash while we are on our daily walk, while simultaneously trying to maintain ourselves in an upright position.  Teaching our own dogs to walk on a loose leash is very important, but it's especially important for a homeless shelter dog to make a super-duper good impression on people who visit the shelter while he (or she) is hanging out waiting for a fur-ever home.  This is where a Good Buddy comes in really handy!  Here's how it goes:

At the very first sign of leash pulling, do not raise your voice or yank on the dog's leash, but just quickly, and in a very animated manner, say "Turn Around" and (of course) turn around and begin walking briskly in the other direction.  Your dog will be confused and somewhat thrown off-guard by the change of direction in his forward movement.  After about 15 seconds of walking in the other direction, turn back around and resume  your walk.  Repeat this process for as long as it takes to get that "loose leash."  You won't get instant results, but you will get amazing results.  Patience, repetition and consistency is the key.  Be the leader and keep your cool.

Happy walking!